Browse Tag

shiraz

And we’d sing, sing, sing!

[vine]Torbreck 2006 “Woodcutter’s” Shiraz (Barossa Valley) – Demiglace of syrah, turned piney and pruney. There’s actually some acidity, but it flails around helplessly in the face of the dull-razor hacking and slashing of the slightly burnt fruit. While the worst sins of the Barossa are absent here, the wine’s still up to precious little good. (5/08)

Don’t shoot the dog!

[vineyard]Bellingham 2005 Shiraz “The Old Cellar” (Coastal Region) – Dense and barky, fullish but pruned fruit, wood, and asphalt. Finishes as pure fermented wood. Yuck. (2/08)

Let’s go Duke

[bottles]Allée Bleue 2005 Shiraz (Western Cape) – Incredibly dense, to the point of organoleptic opacity. Balanced and structured, with blueberry and chocolate dominating. This will permanently ruin your teeth. It’s all too much, really, yet I’m sure many will find it appealing. (2/08)

Regards with to

Penfolds 2004 “RWT” Shiraz (Barossa Valley) – Smoky blueberry, blackberry, and chocolate. Dense and clumsy, stumbling through a long but unbelievably dull finish. Bottled boredom. (2/08)

Betcha by Gully wow

[label]Rocky Gully 2005 Shiraz 95%/Viognier 5% (Frankland River) – Very dark black, almost charred fruit, with a layer of tar. Air helps a little bit, but this carries an acrid vinyl note of medium-quality pinotage that never fades. It’s very noisy and repetitive, as if it were shiraz reconceived as thrash metal. A strappy, shut-that-music-off-you-damned-kids wine that I don’t much care for. (3/08)

Cluster bomb

[bottle]Wyndham Estate 2003 Shiraz “Black Cluster” (Hunter Valley) – This is the first release of a wine intended to be “iconic,” from older vines. There is no ’04, but there is an ’05 and there will be an ’07 (thought to be the best of the bunch thus far), while a decision on the ’06 had not yet been made at the time of this tasting. Here is a much more serious style of shiraz, though still commercially accessible, with deep fruit showing blackberry, blueberry, plum and apple-crisped acidity, dark earth redolent with black truffle, and a little meat and leather in the picture as well. Very solid and nicely done. (9/07)

505 ways to make your wine pink

[bottle]Wyndham Estate 2006 Shiraz Rosé “Bin 505” (Australia) – Not a saignée, but rather a wine from grapes dedicated to this purpose, with the must chilled and a relatively cold fermentation. It’s simple, with clean, minty cherry dominating, and it’s full-bodied without being over the top, with a wet finish and good acid balance. Enjoyable. (9/07)