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Sekt & zweigeltness

Steininger 2008 Zweigelt Sekt (Austria) – Zweigelt is a grape that, while it maintains a Teutonic reserve and stiff upper, usually seems to be barely restraining a little explosion of laughter. Only the ravages of heavy wood and international blending grapes can really repress the undercurrent of fun. On the other hand, it’s possible to release too many inhibitions, and that’s what I feel is going on here. Tutti-frutti berries, an almost candied sweet-tartness, and an overdose of affected fun. While the medium-dark froth is a fun party guest, you’ll soon find yourself looking elsewhere for interesting conversation. (8/12)

Traminer girls

Steininger 2008 Traminer Sekt (Kamptal) – The heady aromatics of traminer, frothy and slightly sticky, given lift and then weighted down a bit by their more fantastical whims. It’s a very fun wine. (6/12)

Major sekts

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2005 Majoratsfüllung Riesling Deutscher Sekt Extra Dry (Germany) – For a change (amongst various brands of sekt, not something particular to this bottle) this isn’t like drinking glass shards spiked with tartaric acid. Rather, there’s some almond skin, melon rind, apple, and bitter lemon to be braced by the expectedly vivid acidity. Not bad at all. (12/09)