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By the horns

Taurino 2003 Salice Salentino “Riserva” (Puglia) – In days of yore (momma) this was a regular favorite. Time has not been kind, both to the wine and to my memory of it, and of course the year is no help. Like drinking fruited lead. (7/12)

Murgia, Murgia me

Colli della Murgia 2010 “Erbaceo” (Puglia) – 60% fiano minutolo, 40% greco. Both grapes  are quite obviously present, with the wax and stick of the former mingling with the ashen acridity of the latter. There’s a lot of noise up front, but it’s way too quiet out back, and ultimately the wine promises much more than it delivers. Advice: better chilled than at “proper temperature.” (5/12)

Look out

Perrini 2010 Negroamaro (Puglia) – Right hook. Uppercut. Right hook. Left hook. Combination. Jab. Jab. Jab. Knockout. The judges are unanimous. (10/11)