Browse Tag

portugal

Kenievel

Real Companhia Velha “Evel” 2006 Douro Branco (Douro) – Heat-damaged, I think, which hasn’t entirely killed the wine, but has certainly pummeled it about the face and body. (11/10)

Noval-gazing

Quinta do Noval Tawny Porto (Douro) – Among the (relatively) big producers whose Portos are widely available, this is the only one I find reliable enough for constant resupply. This is not one of the house’s superior efforts, but it’s still tasty enough. Sweet caramels and brown sugars, pleasant and inviting, with the afterburn well-handled. (9/10)

Kitaen

Quinta do Infantado Tawny Porto (Douro) – Caramel, brown sugar, baked plum. Silky and only a little bit hot. Simple, but nice. (5/10)

J. crew

J. Portugal Ramos “Marquês de Borba” 2007 Alentejo (Portugal) – Tight purple and red berries in equal measure, some licorice, and a bit of black olive, but fading and tiring. Yes, already. Perhaps a damaged bottle, perhaps just a wine that was best at release, but the structure is already clinging to life better than the exterior trappings of fruit. (1/10)

Vento box

Quinta de Ventozelo 2006 Douro “Vinzelo” (Douro) – Bridges an older, increasingly outmoded style of Portuguese red (prematurely fatigued and sun-baked) with the newer, more pristine, more confident style. There’s ripe fruit from purple berries, edging up to a sticky barrier but rarely drifting into its corpulent muck for long, a general lack of structure, and as the last drop is drained, little other than a pleasant memory. “Yeah. That was a wine. I drank it.” (1/10)

Cracker

[vineyard]Graham’s 1996 Porto Malvedos (Douro) – Still sticky-fruited and jellified, all blue/purple/black berry syrup and slippery sweetness. What structure there is has been forcefully relegated to the background. Easy-drinking, and as it airs some hints of a graphite-textured tannin finally emerge from some remote refuge. Needs more time, but on the other hand quite drinkable now. (12/09)

Dow before me

Dow’s 1990 Porto Quinta do Bomfim (Douro) – Red cherry, black pepper, and spice…sweet, rich, and full-bodied, but balanced. I think. There’s a minor bit of developmental appeal now, but I’d let this one hang around a fair while longer. (12/09)