Pennichuck “Feuer Wehrmann” Schwarzbier (New Hampshire) – Just enough char and brood for typicity, but not so much that the beer becomes oppressive. This isn’t a “fun” drink, but it’s a good one, with a sticky, tar-like swirl amongst a vague hickory smoke…like catching the whiff of a distant neighbor’s grillfest. (6/08)

Pennichuck “Saint Florian” Doppelbock Lager (New Hampshire) – Lager? Does that account for the watery finish to an otherwise appealing intensity of fermented stone fruit and spice? It’s not bad, exactly…it’s as if a way has been found to make bock more of a thirst-quencher than a sipper…but I think I’ll stick with the ales for now, thanks. (6/08)

Pennichuck “Pozharnik” Espresso Russian Imperial Stout (New Hampshire) – Sweet, toffee-infused, moka-brewed coffee. Aside from the sweetness, which will be problematic for some, this is very deftly done, and entirely delicious. (1/08)

Pennichuck “Bagpiper’s” Scottish Ale (New Hampshire) – Smoky (apparently deliberately so) and heavy, but despite the weirdness it’s a joy to drink. (1/08)