Ommegang “Aphrodite” Belgian-Style Ale (New York) – Fermented with grains of paradise, though I can’t say that I notice anything peppery about it. Mostly it’s just big, weighty, built to impress, but for all that effort sort of pointless and formless. In that it’s like most of Ommegang’s ales, which are routinely disappointing for my palate. (12/11)

Ommegang “Cup O Kyndnes” Scotch Ale (New York) – Heavy, as befits the category, but I’ve never had a domestic version of this style that I thought really captured the balanced weight of the original, and this is no exception. Sweet metal and armored stone fruit with a sandy finish. And, in case it needs stressing, quite boozy. (9/10)

Ommegang Abbey Ale (New York) – Sorta like listening to Dana Carvey do President (George H.W.) Bush; you can’t mistake what it represents, but it’s not really the same. I’m not sure what would help this beer be more like its Belgian inspiration, but I think the word “more” would be a start. (10/08)