Browse Tag


Cogno uno

Cogno 2002 Barolo (Piedmont) – Very tannic and a bit thin, with tight red fruit over thin sheets of graphite. Dry and highly linear. (2/07)

Travaglini guide

Travaglini 2001 Gattinara (Piedmont) – Aromatic roses. Lithe and medium-bodied. Soil notes, soft but growing a bit, then closing up again on the finish. Not bad, not good, just sort of indifferent. (2/07)

Out, Damilano spot!

Damilano 2001 Barolo Cannubi (Piedmont) – Gorgeous aromatics. Strong tannin. Some softening towards reddish fruit, and finishing spicy (barrel-spicy?) It starts promisingly enough, but then… (2/07)

The key to Acclivi

Comm. GB Burlotto “Verduno” 2001 Barolo Acclivi (Piedmont) – Nicely aromatic, classic rose and tar, heavy and not that great, yet oddly promising. If that makes sense. It doesn’t to me. (2/07)

Uncle Nebieul

Benotto 2002 Monferrato “Nebieul” (Piedmont) – Silky and firm, with light tar, fresh violets and roses, and a beautiful structure. Morels, plum skins and a fine acidity come to the fore on the long finish. Very nice. (2/07)

Albareda after dinner

Mamete Prevostini “Albareda” 2003 Sforzato di Valtellina (Lombardy) – Big blueberry and blackberry. Fruity and showing surprising signs of freshness. Powerful, spicy, and a little bit hot, with a long finish. In its idiom, it’s actually somewhat balanced. Not for the faint of palate, though. (2/07)

Pira review

[bottle]Roagna 1993 Barolo Rocca la Pira “Riserva” (Piedmont) – Lovely, leafy aromatics over nuts and grain. Softly structured and long, like a rich memory of autumn. (1/08)

La Rocca & a hard place

[bottle]Roagna 2000 Barolo La Rocca e la Pira (Piedmont) – Beautiful and deep, with dark flowers, skins, and seeds forming both the aromatics and the structure of the wine, plus dark (unsweetened) chocolate melting on the finish. Yum. (1/08)

Rionda lay

[bottle]Roagna 2003 Barolo Vigna Rionda (Piedmont) – Stunning aromatics of roses and old goat cheese rind (not ammoniated, just that beautiful melding of farmhouse and dairy). It is, however, strikingly tannic and imbalanced right now, though it’s long and full enough that I think there’s actually promise. It’ll be a long time coming, though. (1/08)