Browse Tag

müller-catoir

The bigger they are

Müller-Catoir 2006 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Beerenauslese 14 07 (Pfalz) – From 375 ml. Thudding sugar of nearly unbelievable intensity. Huge molten metal paired with grilled pineapple. But oh, so overwhelmingly sweet. (3/10)

The Haardter they fall

Müller-Catoir 2008 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Spätlese 20 09 (Pfalz) – Huge, huge, huge. Banana cream and raspberry popsicle. Oddly, I mean both in a positive way. Powerful, and in fact a little overwhelming. (3/10)

Haardt & soul

[label]Müller-Catoir 2007 Haardt Muskateller Kabinett Trocken 09 08 (Pfalz) – Perfumed, of course…mostly orange blossom…with huge acidity and a lovely slosh of iron flakes. Rather huge for a muscat that’s not fortified or otherwise enhanced, and absolutely stuffed with muscatty goodness. The finish is lengthy, which (again) isn’t what one usually expects from the grape. I’ve had a few muscats that were better than this, but only a few. (12/08)

Give it to me Haardter

[towerMüller-Catoir 1998 Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese 19 99 (Pfalz) – My regular M-C source has brought so many rieslaners, scheureben, and muskatellers of late that I’d almost forgotten they make riesling. This wine stirs the memory in quite a hurry. If lemon-lime could be crystallized and calcified, this is what they’d taste like, with shattered crystals in electrified water the dominant textural component. There’s no lack of apple sculpted from granite, either, but to me this wine is like drinking a chandelier explosion. Striking. (8/08)

No Mussbacher, no fuss

[bottle]Müller-Catoir 1990 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese 98 91 (Rheinpfalz) – Big fun, though it’s particular enough that it’s not for everyone. Bronzed cream dominates, with somewhat riotous exotic herbs floating about on top, and a palate that seems like it should be more sugary than it actually is. Drink up. (10/07)