Gauthier “Domaine de Colette” 2009 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes” (Beaujolais) – One does not, as a rule, look to Moulin-à-Vent for early approachability. Even the circus-clown Dubœuf bottlings can be a little brutish in their (briefer than normal) youth. And 2009 is no vintage for quaffers and guzzlers, from any appellation. And yet, here is the exception to every expectation. A wine full of sines and cosines in wave form, a black pulsar of low-level red-fruited radiation, a neutron-star core of particulate minerality, and a soft, quickly-fading finish. The temptation to call it a bad wine just because it’s so obviously “wrong” is, itself, wrong; it’s not a bad wine, though I dare not ask how it arrived at this point. In fact, it’s exceedingly pleasurable. (2/12)
moulin-à-vent
Head to head
Louis Tête 1997 Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais) – Shrilly acidic, to the point that it causes a bit of reflux. It’s just too old, and what’s left is hard, harsh, tired, and not much fun at all. Remnants of a very soil-based aromatic profile linger, as well as some dark berry squeezings, but if you’ve still got any, I hope it’s in an icy cellar. (12/09)
Diochon, how are you?
Diochon 1997 Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais) – Surprisingly ready, despite a remaining spike of dense tannin. The fruit is quite developed, with the black cherry fruit devolving to old, baked, nicely mature flavors of berry soda, spice, and revealed black soil, and the structure has parted more than enough to show this. The tannin suggests that it could age longer, but I just don’t think the fruit will survive many more years of aging; it’s not ideal, but I’d drink it soonish. (5/08)