Montez “Domaine du Monteillet” 2000 St-Joseph Blanc (Rhône) – The initial impression is mostly wood, or at least so it seems, but with air there’s vaguely spicy baked-yellow earth, well-aged stone fruit, and a gently vibrating wave structure. Nicer than I’d thought it would be given its overwhelmingly arboreal youth, but it would have been better still with a little more restraint in the cellar. (8/08)