Château Margaux 2000 “Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux” (Margaux) – Lush, sultry, slutty, whorehouse Bordeaux. I don’t mean that as a bad thing, necessarily, but the lurid aromatics and the very particular texture…well, I can see why certain critics tend towards describing wines such as this in pornographic terms, because the lingo fits. There’s plenty of structure, but it’s oh-so-plushy and New World, and the dark fruit is expansive and soft. That said, there’s tobacco and pepper dust (more on the fruit than the spice side of pepper), and it is recognizable as Bordeaux. But modern Bordeaux, for sure. I find it impossible to not like, despite any stylistic reservations. Surprisingly drinkable now, but there’s far from any hurry to get to it; I suspect there’s a lot more development to come. (5/10)
margaux
Not such a little prince
Malescot St. Exupéry 2003 Margaux (Bordeaux) – Big and tannic, but reasonably balanced for all its musculature. Elegant, lush fruit, pepper, some spice and heat on the finish. Considering the vintage, this isn’t all bad. (2/08)
He shoots, Giscours!
Tare “Giscours” 1970 Margaux (Bordeaux) – All tobacco and leather and first, then adding chocolate and black dirt. Structured, with drying tannin, but persistent. Blended peppercorns dust the finish. Beautiful, and still in the prime of its life. (2/07)
To the four winds
Thienpont “Clos des Quatre Vents” 2000 Margaux (Bordeaux) – Lush and fruity, but no internationalized bomb; the dark, concentrated berries rest in a stew of graphite and ripe tannin, with cedar and dried flowers floating at the edges. This is large, to be sure, but it’s recognizably Bordeaux, and will easily reward another decade of age. Probably more. (1/08)