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It’s the magic number

Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2006 Málaga “3” (Málaga) – Richness upon richness. Almond oil, fruit syrup, spice, and weight…but not too much of the latter, allowing it to helix into something more complex as it lingers. Beautiful stuff. (8/12)

Adding accents

[vineyard]Jorge Ordóñez & Co. 2006 Málaga “Seleccion Especial 1” (Málaga) – Intensely sweet, like candied fruit…though that’s not quite right, since the fruit isn’t sugary or slightly synthetic, it’s just nearly solid in its sucrosity. Orange peel? Or blossom? Why not both? There’s not really all that much complexity, but I don’t think it’s necessary. And despite all the sweetness, there’s a bit more “wine” to this than the higher-numbered bottlings. (5/09)

For MR and MR

Telmo Rodríguez “MR” 2002 Málaga Moscatel (Málaga) – Classic muscat with more intensity and brilliance than usual, though it’s in no way a light wine; sun shines from the core, almost blindingly so, lending warmth and presence. There’s more spice than normal, and a dense, rounded texture. Delish. (6/08)

Especially for you

Ordoñez & co. 2004 Málaga Moscatel “Seleccion Especial” (Andalucía) – Intense. A warm expression of pure muscat, taking flowers strongly into the realm of orange blossom, and adding a thick, powerful backbeat of spice and warming body. Not complex, but then muscat is far too primary and boisterous to allow much complexity in the vast majority of its expressions. (5/08)