Goyard “Domaine de Roally” 1999 Mâcon-Villages “Tradition” (Mâcon) – Heavy. Lush, hinting at a syrupy texture but with a preserved lime-influenced fruit that cuts against that weight. Botrytized? Possibly. Whether or no, it’s nicely mature at this stage, though I don’t suppose lovers of more decrepit chardonnay will be in any hurry. (8/10)
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mâcon-villages
Gofeet
Goyard “Domaine de Roally” 1999 Mâcon-Villages “Tradition” (Mâcon) – Vivid and beeswaxy, commencing in a linear fashion, growing rounder and fleshier around the waist, and then tapering again into the finish. Dry honey, chalk, crystals. After an hour or so, there’s a hint of butter. A really, really good wine, and my best bottle of this yet. (3/10)
Perrusset, Perrussat, mama-coo-sa
Perrusset 2002 Mâcon-Villages (Mâcon) – Rich with complexity. Mushrooms and beige earth, old mirabelle plums, and a bright, dust-infused texture. It crescendos quickly, then fades almost as quickly, which is less a knock than a realistic response to the potential of the terroir. This is probably not fully mature, but it’s drinking beautifully right now. (1/09)
Quintaine coup
Guillemot-Michel 2001 Mâcon-Villages “Quintaine” (Mâcon) – Seems fully mature, with concentration at the core and aromatic frippery around the perimeter. White truffle, faded but good, white peach, (dry) honeysuckle, and a dust-in-heavy water texture. Lengthy finish. Really quite enticing, though it tastes a lot more like Guillemot-Michel than it does chardonnay. As for whether or not it tastes like a Mâcon, that category is almost too debased for comparison. (1/09)