Tripoz 2009 Mâcon Serrières Rouge “La Prim’Heure” (Mâcon) – Very earthen, which flows through otherwise evergreen boughs and surprisingly dark berries. Acidity supports the entire edifice. Not exactly “lively,” but long and confident. (2/11)
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mâcon
Roally world
Goyard “Domaine de Roally” 1999 Mâcon-Villages “Tradition” (Mâcon) – Heavy. Lush, hinting at a syrupy texture but with a preserved lime-influenced fruit that cuts against that weight. Botrytized? Possibly. Whether or no, it’s nicely mature at this stage, though I don’t suppose lovers of more decrepit chardonnay will be in any hurry. (8/10)
Gofeet
Goyard “Domaine de Roally” 1999 Mâcon-Villages “Tradition” (Mâcon) – Vivid and beeswaxy, commencing in a linear fashion, growing rounder and fleshier around the waist, and then tapering again into the finish. Dry honey, chalk, crystals. After an hour or so, there’s a hint of butter. A really, really good wine, and my best bottle of this yet. (3/10)
Milly first
Cordier 2005 Mâcon-Lamartine-Milly “Clos du Four” (Mâcon) – Light oak spice, good weight, fine balance, but this reminds me why I just don’t buy, drink, or enjoy oaked chardonnay; there’s just nothing here that can’t be attributed more or less to the wood. (7/09)
No Guff
Guffens-Heynen 2000 Mâcon-Pierreclos “Le Chavigne” (Mâcon) – Very dry and structured, mild oak…and not much else. Seems OK, but there’s not a whole lot of “there” there. People whose palates I trust insist that these are good, atypically-Guffens wines to which I’m regularly unfair, but I’ve yet to see it. (9/08)
Pouilly your resources
Jadot 2006 Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon) – Faceted chardonnay, clean and simple, with not much in the way of it. And not much else to it, either. This isn’t really a complaint – it’s a perfectly decent quaff – but I do wish it was a little less boring. (2/09)
Perrusset, Perrussat, mama-coo-sa
Perrusset 2002 Mâcon-Villages (Mâcon) – Rich with complexity. Mushrooms and beige earth, old mirabelle plums, and a bright, dust-infused texture. It crescendos quickly, then fades almost as quickly, which is less a knock than a realistic response to the potential of the terroir. This is probably not fully mature, but it’s drinking beautifully right now. (1/09)
Quintaine coup
Guillemot-Michel 2001 Mâcon-Villages “Quintaine” (Mâcon) – Seems fully mature, with concentration at the core and aromatic frippery around the perimeter. White truffle, faded but good, white peach, (dry) honeysuckle, and a dust-in-heavy water texture. Lengthy finish. Really quite enticing, though it tastes a lot more like Guillemot-Michel than it does chardonnay. As for whether or not it tastes like a Mâcon, that category is almost too debased for comparison. (1/09)
Mâcon bacon
Guffens-Heynen 2000 Mâcon-Pierreclos “Le Chavigne” (Mâcon) – Quite woody, showing sweet melon and banana. Sickly spicy, with big, aggressive wood. Acidity doesn’t help. (9/07)
TN: John Clessé
Guillemot-Michel 1998 Mâcon-Clessé (Mâcon) – Served blind (by me), with confused guesses. This initially appears to have great balance, with a big, juicy arrival of tangerine and orange rind, plus complexing skin bitterness on the finish. However, it quickly turns angular and ungenerous. Closed? Dying? Disappointing? The latter, for sure. (5/07)
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