Lucien “Le Vieux Donjon” 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône) – Smells like a Burgundy, tastes like a Rhône…but something more northerly, perhaps Côte-Rôtie, in its elegance and restraint. And it’s still very primary tannic and tight, albeit from a glacial cellar; more typical cellaring environments might lead to different results. It’s full of suggestions, gestures, and hints, with a peacock tail of aromas just waiting to burst forth. Classy and portending beauty. (3/10)
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Sean John Donjon
Lucien “Le Vieux Donjon” 1994 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône) – From a very cold cellar, so read what follows in that context. This is very difficult, with still-sludgy tannin and a concentrated, reductive, nearly impenetrable density. There would seem to be a great deal of iron, blood, and compacted earth within, and the wine’s very long on the finish, but there’s also a glossy sheen to the exterior that I don’t care for at all. Judgment completely reserved. (1/10)
Donjon-son & Philip Michael Thomas
Michel “Le Vieux Donjon” 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône) – Beautiful. Nuts, stones, and spice. Richly fruited. A white-out of flavor. Long, with good acidity. Really excellent. (2/08)
A nice Vieux
Michel “Le Vieux Donjon” 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône) – Gorgeous. Full-throated. Meat and herbs. Very tannic now, but the balance is terrific, and this has massive potential. (2/08)