Wölffer Estate 2005 Cabernet Franc (The Hamptons) – Bell pepper soup with blueberries on top. Not an appealing combination. I’ve had the very, very, very occasional success from Long Island, but most of them have tasted like this (or overoaked versions thereof). At least this has the virtue of not being Hamptons-priced, as so many of its neighbors are, though at around $20 it’s still asking about twice what it’s worth. (4/09)
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Until you come to…the North Fork in the road
Schneider 2005 Cabernet Franc “Le Breton” (North Fork) – The name is apt; while broad-shouldered and with the slightest bit of swagger, this nonetheless reminds me more of Loire franc, or perhaps satellite Bordeaux, than anything from the New World. It’s bigger and somewhat heavier, but doesn’t sacrifice the dark, scowling fruit lightened by crispness, nor the enticing leafiness, nor the significant black dirt element. A minor miracle: I’ve finally found a Long Island wine that I like. (I ask my bartender, “what’s the secret?” She responds, “just drink Schneider.” (5/08)