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lincoln peak

Smooth as rhubarb

Lincoln Peak 2007 “Silk” Ice Wine (Vermont) – Frontenac gris, with the dark brown tones of a much older (or heavily botrytized) wine; I don’t know which applies here. Tastes of not-too-sweet birch sap and rhubarb. No, really. It’s…fascinating. Good? No, not really, but it does go very well with a rhubarb-based dessert. So there’s something. (6/12)

Marquette basket

Lincoln Peak 2008 Marquette (Vermont) – “For a Vermont wine” this is pretty good. Which means that, in the greater pantheon, it’s OK. Not all that foxy, but showing the slightly gelatinous fruit of the genre, here cut with enough acid for balance. Easygoing and nice to drink. (7/10)

Continental divide

Lincoln Peak 2008 La Crescent (Vermont) – Drier than one expects, and probably drier than is ideal; it lacks the concentration to support a more arid expression, and would probably be assisted by a little more residual sugar. Flavors are bare, but inhabit some small corner of the lemon/apple/tea family. I hate to say that the absence of flaws is a significant improvement on most Vermont wine, but it’s the case here (the wine is painstakingly clean), and so I suspect that time, effort…and severe global warming…will eventually lead to better things here. (2/10)