Leroy 1995 Clos de Vougeot (Burgundy) – Tight-grained and muscular, but by no means overly dominant, showing a fanatic’s assemblage of tiny wild berries, a mélange of mineral-infused truffles, and a whirlwind, rolling persistence that expands past the nose and mouth into the brain, then races straight down to the heart. Great wines so often possess a certain tactility; this one does its own touching without any help from the taster…and exploration which moves quickly from a firm grasp to a passionate caress. There’s a powerful dimorphism at work here; it simultaneously inhabits both masculine and feminine forms, and the tension and interplay between them defines the wine. Breathtaking. Simply breathtaking. (8/07)