Browse Tag

lamm

The Lamm lies down

[label]Schloss Gobelsburg 2007 Grüner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) – Generally round, yet pointed when it needs to be. Ripe, salted celery and mineral filings, with a rich texture akin to some sort of custard, yet sacrificing nothing in structure or balance. Finishes dryer than it seems to begin. Like drinking green sun from a glass. (12/08)

On the Lamm

[vineyard]Schloss Gobelsburg 2006 Lamm Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal) – From a loam/sandstone/gneiss vineyard that Theise calls “the Montrachet of grüner veltliner,” carrying 14% alcohol and 3-4 grams of residual sugar. Visually solid, with a faint greenness intruding on a medium-deep yellow core. Aromatically breathtaking, bringing together creamy vanilla, smoky charcoal, and a rich, autumnal iron character. The palate is similarly creamy (both texturally and with the actual impression of fresh cream) and thick, with makrut lime and lemon curd that brace and churn all that density, yet add only complexity rather than dissension. The finish is lush and flawlessly balanced, even with the clear influence of softening residual sugar. Majestic. (2/08)

On the Lamm

[vineyard]Hirsch 2004 Grüner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) – About 25% as rich as the lush 2005, but still with plenty of weight and heft. Celery leaves, Buddha’s hand rind, coconut cream, and a fine, crisp balance with an intensity and presence. This could be better (witness the 2005), but it’s fairly classic as it stands; the only real flaw is a descent to peppery acridity in the finish. (5/08)