Lafarge 2005 Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy) – Perhaps a touch older than need be, though the interest grows with air and it’s possibly I’m underselling this. Old wax, slight oxidation, faded copper, somewhat acrid sweat-laced grapefruit skins. Much less tentative than it seems at first sip, it does build to something, but that something is mostly more of what it first promised, which isn’t an improvement so much as an escalation in volume. (5/12)