Guion 2009 Bourgueil “Cuvée Prestige” (Loire) – So very hard. Under the tannic weight-slam measured by its tonnage there’s dark, dirty, punk rock fruit that will, one day, clean up enough to be presentable at the Kennedy Center. Come that day, I expect that the aromatics will be rather lavish. But there’ll always be that hard edge. Gravity doesn’t go away. (2/12)