Graziano 2004 Zinfandel Eddie Graziano “Old Vine” (Mendocino) – 14.5%. While I suspect that, somewhere deep in the interior of this wine, there’s pleasant and approachable wild-vine, dark-berry fruit, it’s impossible to perceive through the hard screens and blockades of structure. I suspect that the grapes were just not up to being pushed towards such a serious destination. With the right (fatty) food, it’s a little better. (4/09)