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Gras “Domaine Santa Duc” 1995 Gigondas “Prestige des Hautes Garrigues” (Rhône) – Spiced bubblegum and herbs in sweet vanilla tea. Later, it’s herbed coffee. Somewhere in the middle, there’s a bit of wild game. Its appeal is open and overt, and perhaps it tries too hard, but I really enjoy the result. (9/10)

Duc of earl

[dentelles de montmirail]Gras “Santa Duc” 2005 Côtes-du-Rhône “Les Vieilles Vignes” (Rhône) – Monolithic and boring, this tastes of a squared-off block of soil concentrate sprayed with an anonymous dark fruit residue. It’s never bad, but it’s highly inactive, and ultimately quite dull. (3/08)