Maule “La Biancara” 2004 Gambellara Pico (Veneto) – Stunning. Breathtaking. And not for everyone. This is waxy and incredibly intense (more a matter of texture and feel than aromatics), and virtually pulses with long-macerated energy, bringing petals, leaves, sticks and stones to the palate and then abrading them into liquidity, which lingers and coats for a surprisingly long time. I do think, however, that people who prefer their fruit and their structure to be a little more obvious or familiar might have difficulty with this wine. Too bad for them. (1/08)