Browse Tag

gamay

And Pepsi is the father

Coquelet 2008 Chiroubles (Beaujolais) – Not in the best of all possible places, this is showing some withering muscle in a stew of bright acidity, all of it washed in vivid red hues. I suspect it will emerge later in a better-knit state, but right now it’s a little knotty. (8/11)

Combesover

Descombes 2006 Brouilly (Beaujolais) – Salt-spice, diverting earthiness, a gentle and unclenched hand soft with flesh and yield. This bottle, at least, has done all it intends to do. (7/11)

A Terres in the universe

Brun “Terres Dorées” 2008 Beaujolais “l’Ancien” (Beaujolais) – Bought on closeout, but I’d forgotten the type of closure until it was too late. So this is harsher and far more advanced than the wine deserves, a razor-wire slash of acidity and lacerating red fruit with no generosity or fun to it. Blame the plug, not the wine…and also, blame the buyer, who should have remembered to open this years ago. Back in the day, this was delish. (7/11)

Dave

Coudert-Appert “Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois” 2007 Fleurie (Beaujolais) – There was a time when this Fleurie would have pleased me greatly, and that time was back when I realized just how indifferent Dubœuf’s Beaujolais are. And while I couldn’t in any way say that I’m displeased, especially as the soft multi-berried fruit and gentle soil elements are nicely crisped by acidity, there really isn’t much comparison except in the broadest strokes between this and more exciting Fleuries, like Chermette, Métras, Coudert (the latter is a bit of a special case, granted), and so forth. Still, one can do a lot worse. (6/11)

Rum, tea

Cheveau 2007 Saint-Amour “En Rontey” (Beaujolais) – Every bottle of this wine is more textural than the last, and I think to the wine’s benefit. The texture is sort of suede-like, maybe a little lighter than that, which nicely compliments magenta-tinged alpine berries and a levitatingly light body. (6/11)

Leynes change

Boissieu “Château de Lavernette” 2009 Beaujolais-Leynes “Le Clos” (Beaujolais) – I admit that I am a shameless collector of appellations, and this one was unfamiliar to me, which pretty much guaranteed its purchase. Though I can’t say that, poking around the INAO’s site, I’m overwhelmed with the urgency of this particular designation. Well, appellations don’t matter as much as the wine, right? And the wine’s very good. Sharper than most 2009s, marrying the crisp, sprightly fruit of “basic” Beaujolais to the more intense insistence of 2009 Beaujolais, this manages a savvy balancing act of fruit and transparency, intensity and anti-gravity, blitheness and earnestness. Crispy red berries, a little granitic dust, a lot of acidity, and the chlorophyllic bite of freshly-cut leaves. What one drinks Beaujolais (no cru) for. (2/11)

Vissoux Storm

Chermette “Domaine du Vissoux” 2009 Beaujolais “Cuvée traditionnelle vieilles vignes” (Beaujolais) – Would I guess this was Beaujolais, blind? Quite possibly not. Gamay? Maybe, but I bet I’d guess New World. Neither Q/A is meant to be an indictment of the wine, by the way, which is big, muscular, a bit heavy, but not too over-anything. At least, that’s my hope. The future may prove me wrong. Fruit remains decidedly red and of the berry variety, there’s acidity (though less than usual), and despite the gravity there’s still some zip and zing to be found. But now we need to age our basic Beaujolais? I guess we do. (2/11)

Dupeuble, Colorado

Dupeuble 2009 Beaujolais (Beaujolais) – A reduction sauce as much as a wine, so incredibly concentrated and markedly thick that it’s almost hard to swallow. It’s not, I feel I must add, out of balance as a result. There’s acidity, there’s a little brushstroke of tannin, and while the fruit is massive it’s not overbearing beyond the usual fruit-burst quality of Beaujolais in more normal years. But while this might appeal to those who’ve always found Beaujolais too thin for their tastes, I suspect it will be many years before it appeals to fans of the region. Or, at least, that’s true for this particular fan. Will it last that long? Let’s hope. (1/11)

Rontey Barber

Cheveau 2007 Saint-Amour “En Rontey” (Beaujolais) – Light and shade on a floral still life. Red, pink, lavender, magenta. Brittle. Not engaging, but un-ignorable. (1/11)