Browse Tag



JP Brun “FRV100” (Beaujolais) – I would normally say that I could never get tired of drinking this, but after a summer of doing just that, I find that the persistent sticky character to the fruit is just a little enervating, and despite the unmistakable appeal to those who are having their first encounter with its charms (I’m serving this at a non-geek dinner party), I’m left a bit bereft of enchantment. This is a very fun wine, but ultimately I think the Bugey Cerdon is more compelling, perhaps because it’s just less slutty. None of this should be taken as a denouncement of the wine, which is eminently recommendable and incomparably drinkable. I’m just full of jaded ennui, and not to my credit. (10/08)

Roilette paper

Coudert “Clos de la Roilette” 2005 Fleurie (Beaujolais) – Told to bring pinot noir for a salmon dinner, I switch to this when the preparation is announced as involving green beans and tomatoes. And it works beautifully, with the food bringing out more acidity than I’ve previously noticed in this wine, yet leaving the irresistible small red berries intact. And then, in the absence of the food, there’s the long, lingering finish of surprising delicacy yet firm insistence. I have no idea what to make of this wine, other than I’m glad I have a lot of it. (10/08)

One dollar

JP Brun Vin Mousseux “FRV100” (Beaujolais) – How can fruit be both concentrated and light? It’s like the essence of something late-summery…strawberries, perhaps, or maybe cloudberries, writ pink, midly frothy, and immensely appealing. This is more “winey” than the similarly-constructed wines of Bugey-Cerdon, and it’s definitely heftier, but it’s no less an interpretation of a fun, quaffing “soda pop’ for adults. (8/08)

Charmes bracelet

[jean-marc]JM Burgaud 2006 Morgon Les Charmes (Beaujolais) – Except for the higher-toned, red-hued acidity that floats from the glass, this is as much a pinot as any Morgon I’ve tasted from this house. Structured, earthy, and yet quite restrained, it doesn’t hold back so much as reach a lower peak volume than it has in the past, with the dark fruit only in the beginning stages of forming into muscularity. This will be a shorter-term Morgon from this house, though it should still age for a few years. (7/08)

Meet me in

[logo]Barton & Guestier 1999 Beaujolais “Saint-Louis” “Tradition” (Beaujolais) – Wretchedly dead, with spiky acidity and the gross remnants of its makeup smudged all over its face and decomposing body. (6/08)


[painting]Coudert-Appert “Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois” 2006 Fleurie (Beaujolais) – Fine-grained, soft, yet insistent and unyielding. Dark-masked fruit that retains red-fruited lightness, elegant earthiness, beautiful poise, and a beautiful finish. Goodness. (6/08)

20 + Bullwinkle + a needle pulling thread

Brun “FRV100” (Beaujolais) – In the pantheon of sparkling pink beverages, this is the pirate king; assertive, boldly-iconoclastic, rebellious, and showy. The purplish fruit with a heady, freshly-pulled beer froth never “forms up” into a traditional wine structure, but instead comes in waves and eddies of texture and intense flavor. It is, it is a glorious thing. (6/08)

Charmes life

[label]J-M Burgaud 2006 Morgon Les Charmes (Beaujolais) – Light to the point of insignificance at first sip – a shocking thing for a Morgon – this gains weight, flexibility, and complexity with food. Dark berry vines writhe and heavily-salted minerality abounds. There’s very little point in opening this wine until it knits, and it should improve for a half-decade with little effort, but it’s wan right now. (6/08)