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Up in yer Grille

[brun fleurie grille midi]JP Brun “Terres Dorées” 2009 Fleurie Grille Midi (Beaujolais) — In contrast to a surprisingly dead regular 2009 Fleurie (probably just a bad bottle), this was singing a beautiful, jaunty little tune. Flawlessly ripe fruit, some spice, plenty of life and light. Delicious, and one of the best 2009s I’ve tasted at this stage of their lives. (9/16)

Roilette paper

Coudert 2011 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette (Beaujolais) — Bracing, with its gritty fruit cowering a bit under a quick brake-tire screech. An ill-timed opening, but I’ve no reason to believe things won’t resolve for the better. (8/16)

Horse at 11

[coudert]Coudert 2005 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette (Beaujolais) — Autumn into winter, with the structure slightly exposed. I wouldn’t think this would hold much longer, but I’ve been wrong before. Nonetheless, I’m drinking mine. (4/16)

Where fools dert to tread

Coudert 2005 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette (Beaujolais) — Was there a Tardive in 2005? (Checks.) There was. And yet, this clings, and clings well. It’s not robust, it’s not vibrant, it’s not singing. It’s pale and wizened and rather beautiful. It’s a beloved memory, well-preserved. (4/16)

Vissoux me

Chermette “Domaine du Vissoux” 2008 Fleurie Poncié (Beaujolais) – Closed and weird. And I don’t discount the possibility that there’s something wrong with this bottle. (11/11)

Roilette paper

Coudert 2008 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette (Beaujolais) – Awkward, its acidity gangly and uncoordinated with body (itself tart and brilliant red). There’s some gravel, as well, but it rests in a pile in the corner, awaiting some sort of conclusion to the motion. Whether bottle-specific or a general comment on maturation, I can’t say. But this is an elbows-and-knees drinking experience. (1/12)


Coudert-Appert “Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois” 2007 Fleurie (Beaujolais) – There was a time when this Fleurie would have pleased me greatly, and that time was back when I realized just how indifferent Dubœuf’s Beaujolais are. And while I couldn’t in any way say that I’m displeased, especially as the soft multi-berried fruit and gentle soil elements are nicely crisped by acidity, there really isn’t much comparison except in the broadest strokes between this and more exciting Fleuries, like Chermette, Métras, Coudert (the latter is a bit of a special case, granted), and so forth. Still, one can do a lot worse. (6/11)

The Villa of the piece

Villa Ponciago 2009 Fleurie “la Réserve” (Beaujolais) – I don’t even know where to start with the name, so let’s do the wine instead. Where the hell is all this mint (peppermint, mostly) coming from? And why is it in my Fleurie? There’s a little sweet violet fruit lurking way in the background, looking like it was jacked in the playground by mint bullies and left to cower behind the jungle gym until just before the next bell rings, after which it will sprint to class and hope to avoid further violence. There’s plenty of tannin, and were this wine at all pleasant, I’d say it’s a candidate for aging. Maybe it is, maybe it isn’t, but I sure don’t care for how it tastes now. (11/10)

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