Cros de Romet 2000 Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Cairanne (Rhône) – On a weekend in which several vastly more prestigious Rhônes and Rhône-a-likes were opened and found damaged, destroyed, or otherwise wanting, this unassumer – yes, I just invented that word – barreled over the finish line with a rush of mixed metaphors. Rain-slicked dried beef, almost supple in its engagement with the palate, a gently persuading dried herb/dried soil nuance, and then a long, gentle finish. But as a whole, stronger than that. Really quite lovely. (6/12)