Brusset 2004 Cairanne Coteaux des Travers (Rhône) – Fruity and forward, to the extent that I’d be hard-pressed to identify it as a French wine, much less of its place. There’s little structure, but I wouldn’t go so far as the call the ripe strawberry bubblegum fruit formless…it’s just that there’s mostly the simple fact of the initial burst of yum, and then, well, not much else. This feels like a laster rather than an ager, and maybe not even the former. But why wait? Certainly one drinks this because it’s big and fruity, and because one considers those the sine qua non of wine construction. (12/08)