Bonneau de Martray 1998 Corton (Burgundy) – Half a wine. Sweaty, dirty-sex aromas are prematurely clipped. A petal-like texture caresses and soothes, and then a tiny appendage of structure clasps its fist shut. There’s a good deal of acidity that’s never quite integrated into the wine, nor does it seem in balance with anything else available for eventual marriage. There’s plenty here that’s appealing, but overall…I just don’t know. (8/08)