Voge 1998 Cornas “Cuvée Les Vieilles Fontaines” (Rhône) – Classic. Leather, smoked leather, a little bit of char. Yet in some ways, not classic, in that it’s both overly smooth and somewhat restrained. Should Cornas ever be truly restrained? Well, whatever, it’s still a tasty wine. (10/07)
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cornas
Too Chaillot, hush hush
Allemand 1997 Cornas Chaillot (Rhône) – From magnum. A grand cru Burgundy of Cornas. Polished, but in no way slick. Dark meat and blood aromas, roasted walnuts and garlic-sautéed black trumpets, mouth-coating texture and a beautiful, can’t-wait-for-the-next-sip finish. Absolutely fabulous. (10/07)
TN: Verset you, say me
Verset 2001 Cornas (Rhône) – Needs decanting. After sufficient air, this develops lurid decayed flowers on freshly-fertilized soil aromas, baking to the point of blackening in the unrelenting southern sun. Rough, muscular and expansive (especially on the finish), this ends with a sweetening wink, as if to reassure that it can put on a nice shirt and visit the city if it really needs to, but that it would prefer to remain sun-baked and slightly untamed. A beautiful, perfumed wine with almost no concessions to simple-minded lovers of fruit. (6/07)
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