Drouhin 2006 Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy) – Dusty red fruit, trembling and just clinging. Far, far more advanced than a bottle from just a few months ago. Drink up. (5/12)

Drouhin 2006 Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy) – Surprisingly mature, though I don’t know that one couldn’t hold it a little longer at need. Rough-cut earthfruit, strong in will but soft in texture, with gentled old red berries turning to amber, sumac, and fine dustings of earth. Starts, exists, finishes, with a little acidic abruptness to the finish (the only worrisome note, but also the aspect that keeps this a wine of its class rather than something greater). A very fine value Burgundy…and how often can anyone say that? (2/12)

Drouhin 2005 Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy) – Dark, slightly singed fruit plagued by a surplus of tannin. I don’t think it’s ultimately out of balance, but it’s going to take a long time to present itself as an acceptable dinner companion. And, though this comes as no surprise to anyone given the vintage hype, it’s a massively poor value. Update: the wine is only overpriced in certain markets. Elsewhere, it’s around $20, and thus fairly reasonable given the overheated market for 2005 Burgundies. (9/07)