Coquelet 2009 Chiroubles (Beaujolais) – In a boozy, stumbling stage, tripping over its concentrated, lavishly Languedoc-like berries. Time will tell – from others’ cellars, as this is my last bottle – if it comes out the other side, but I’m not optimistic. The structure is already fraying, there’s a little bit of brett, and the alcohol does stand out. That said, with a few hours’ air, this blossoms into a slutty fruit bomb of a wine, which – while not exactly typical of anything except the vintage – would be difficult for anyone but the terminally puckered to not at least kind of enjoy. (5/12)

Coquelet 2010 Chiroubles (Beaujolais) – Sharply malic, as this wine can sometimes be, with crisp raspberries just short of what even I’d call ripe, cranberry, and (of course) apple. All nervousness and tension. I’m glad Beaujolais like this exists, but I’m also glad it’s not all like this. For the record, even this specific bottle isn’t always like this. It can gussy itself up all floral and pretty at times, though the sharpness never goes away. (3/12)

Coquelet 2008 Chiroubles (Beaujolais) – Not in the best of all possible places, this is showing some withering muscle in a stew of bright acidity, all of it washed in vivid red hues. I suspect it will emerge later in a better-knit state, but right now it’s a little knotty. (8/11)