Cazin 1999 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Starts out full but with a decided totter in its step. Aeration restores full vibrancy, and though there’s light oxidation it’s the fully-integrated, essential kind rather than the decaying, covering kind. Wax, old upholstery, bronzed golden plum, and – perhaps the most surprising yet wonderful elements of all – fiery acidity. (3/12)

Cazin 2007 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Not appealing in any way, which is a surprising enough result that I have to wonder about the integrity of this particular bottle. Sharp, a little wrenched, herbal and sweaty. There’s minerality, but there’s even more that’s unpleasant. This just can’t be right. (9/10)

Cazin 2005 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Starbursting yellow fruit with crisp streaks of green, then layers of light chalk and dried honey, and a finishing sheen of very light sweetness. Nicely balanced, very pretty, and as fine a bargain as you’ll find in these difficult times. (1/09)