Guillot “Ultimatum Climat” 2010 Chénas (Beaujolais) – Hard. Surprisingly hard. The hipster label design leads me to think I’m going to get some fresh, frothy, spiky, ultra-natural take on Chénas. Instead, what I get is something Brun-like in its structural geometries. It is, frankly, hard beyond my ability to enjoy it at the moment. That said, I perceive a lot of churning (albeit dark) fruit underneath the planes and angles, and I think either age or, alternatively, aggressive decanting would have helped this bottle’s showing. My fault for not allowing either, I guess. (12/11)