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Still they’re Cazins, identical Cazins…

[cazin]Cazin 2000 Cour-Cheverny “Vendanges Manuelles” (Loire) — Dried pollen, wax, and amber. Like peeling open the pages of an old photo album, with cover sheets sticking together and faded pictures slipping their bonds and tumbling to the floor. (5/16)

Second Cazin, twice removed

Cazin 1999 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Starts out full but with a decided totter in its step. Aeration restores full vibrancy, and though there’s light oxidation it’s the fully-integrated, essential kind rather than the decaying, covering kind. Wax, old upholstery, bronzed golden plum, and – perhaps the most surprising yet wonderful elements of all – fiery acidity. (3/12)

Second Cazin, once-removed

Cazin “Le Petit Chambord” 2009 Cour-Cheverny “Cuvée Renaissance” (Loire) – Presents as quite sweet, and I’d be surprised if there wasn’t an above-threshold level of residual sugar in this wine. It doesn’t detract at all, but it’s good to know before trying to set the wine up on a date with any particular food. Aside from the ripe, round sweetness, there’s honeyed brass, white peach, and a suffusing inner glow of summery warmth that seems…well, almost un-Loire-like, in the sense that most of the region’s wines tend to present as being of just about any other season. Fulsome and long. I can’t quite decide if it lacks sufficient acidity or if the fruit is just so generous that it seems like there’s a lack. In any case, history is on this wine’s side regarding future development, and while it’s immensely appealing at the moment, the appeal is like a more sophisticated version of the fresh, youthful appeal of South African chenin blanc. The things that make this wine potentially great, rather than just appealing, will not be apparent for a while. (12/11)

All Chambord

Cazin 2007 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Not appealing in any way, which is a surprising enough result that I have to wonder about the integrity of this particular bottle. Sharp, a little wrenched, herbal and sweaty. There’s minerality, but there’s even more that’s unpleasant. This just can’t be right. (9/10)

First Cazin

Cazin 2005 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Starbursting yellow fruit with crisp streaks of green, then layers of light chalk and dried honey, and a finishing sheen of very light sweetness. Nicely balanced, very pretty, and as fine a bargain as you’ll find in these difficult times. (1/09)