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Gigondas Kapital

Faraud “Domaine du Cayron” 1998 Gigondas (Rhône) – So very smoky, but it’s the lingering evening smoke of a long-tended fire over which beasts have been slowly turned. There’s also rock…a firm outcropping of rock…and a surprising bit of acidity, though this latter is mostly evident due to the erosion around it rather than some sort of surplus. Really fabulous Gigondas from a then-really fabulous producer (modern reports, which I can neither confirm nor deny, tend towards worrisome inconsistency), at the peak of what I want from aging the stuff. (8/11)

Purple Cayron

Faraud “Domaine du Cayron” 1998 Gigondas (Rhône) – Powerful, and beautifully poised between its axe-hewn youthful structure and the richer, blood-on-stones development that comes with age. The “fruit” may be reddish, the herbs green, the soil grey, but the heart and soul of this wine are of the deepest black. There’s no lack of still-vibrant tannin. Very, very good. (12/09)