Potel 2001 Monthélie “Vieilles Vignes” (Burgundy) — Clinging bravely and attractively, if not exactly beautifully. All grace notes, but the melody’s growing faint. (10/16)
La Pousse d’Or 2005 Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières (Burgundy) — A polished wall of fruit, but the insistence that this is unapproachable is misguided; it’s nothing magnificent at the moment, for sure, but it’s eminently drinkable. I had fears regarding storage for this bottle, hence the infanticide. (10/16)
Maréchal 2002 Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy) — Clinging, just, to a post-twilight red haze. More appealing than I make it sound…this is the destiny of a lot of Burgundy…yet certainly not to be held even a day longer. (7/16)
A&P de Villaine 2005 Côte Chalonnaise “La Digoine” (Burgundy) — Faded and tenuous, yet the thin red persistence eventually convinces. It’s a bit too old, though. (7/16)
Faiveley 1990 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Issarts (Burgundy) — This is the French bottling, purchased directly from Faiveley at release. A French cousin regularly purchased and cellared a handful of Faiveley’s wines, and a number of years back as his health was failing and his doctors told him to stop drinking wine, he started giving away the last of his collection. I was the lucky recipient of a few bottles, and this is the last of them.
In retrospect, I should have opened it earlier. It’s always hard to judge with Faiveley, because there’s so much structure, but this bottle is in a stage where it’s pretty much all structure (mostly tannin) with dusty, dried-out remnants of fruit. That said, what’s there is muscular and brooding, and I think the wine shows its origins pretty clearly.
What the wine lacks in cohesiveness, however, is more than compensated by memory and gratitude. Thank you, Gaston. (6/16)
de Moor 2014 Chablis Coteau de Rosette (Chablis) — Narrower than the usual broad de Moor style, but with plenty of verve and cut. Seems like it should age pretty well. (5/16)
Duplessis 2012 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru (Chablis) — Mineral salts, but whence the oxidative nature? It’s broadening at the moment, and thus pleasant, but I wonder if this isn’t suffering under a failed cork, because the note seems to surprise everyone who’s had or sold the wine. (4/16)
Truchot 2005 Morey-St-Denis “Vieilles Vignes” (Burgundy) — Almost carbonic, in the spiky freshness of the wrinkled cherry fruit. A hint of brett. But so, so vibrant and alive. (4/16)
Lafarge 2005 Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy) – Perhaps a touch older than need be, though the interest grows with air and it’s possibly I’m underselling this. Old wax, slight oxidation, faded copper, somewhat acrid sweat-laced grapefruit skins. Much less tentative than it seems at first sip, it does build to something, but that something is mostly more of what it first promised, which isn’t an improvement so much as an escalation in volume. (5/12)