Browse Tag


The bigger they are

Müller-Catoir 2006 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Beerenauslese 14 07 (Pfalz) – From 375 ml. Thudding sugar of nearly unbelievable intensity. Huge molten metal paired with grilled pineapple. But oh, so overwhelmingly sweet. (3/10)

Dürk diggler

Darting 2007 Dürkheimer Fronhof Scheurebe Beerenauslese 030 08 (Pfalz) – From 375 ml. Not as lurid as the tropical soap factory that scheurebe can sometimes be, but still with one foot in the drink umbrella and lounge chair genre. Thankfully, the other foots in a big vat of (loose) structure and vibrancy. Very sweet, but not in a tooth-eroding way, and fun. (1/10)

One bourbon, one Scotch, & one beerenauslese

[barrels]Anheuser 1999 Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Beerenauslese 049 00 (Nahe) – Extremely sweet, of course, apple, grapefruit, spice, raspberry. A touch of alcohol, believe it or not. This has been opened specifically for me, because apparently I liked it too much in the past. Well, I still like it, though not as much as before. It’s not particularly complex, for sure. But it’s sweet riesling with red fruit notes. Where’s the bad? (3/09)

Fischer king

Dr. Fischer 1990 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Beerenauslese 3 91 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – I find this wine very difficult to access, other than an apple-dominated intense sweetness, but the balance seems flawless despite my tiring palate. (2/08)

The Würz of times

Merkelbach 2006 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Beerenauslese 011 07 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Sulfur. Luscious, with creamy makrut lime and some nicely-preserved acidity. For a BA, however, it’s medium light, and the finish is a little abrupt. It could just be too young, though. (4/08)


Boch 2006 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Beerenauslese 25 07 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Intensely sweet and intensely acidic, just as a BA should be, with a forward presentation of makrut lime and exotic jewelry-quality minerals tumbling and churning in rapids of elegant power. Poised, lengthy, perfect. And still so, so young. (5/08)