Brun “Terres Dorées” 2004 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) – Dead. Frankly, well past dead and into decomposition. Blame the closure. (6/12)
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beaujolais blanc
Terres it up
JP Brun “Terres Dorées” 2007 Beaujolais Blanc Chardonnay (Beaujolais) – Stone fruit with heat and shortness; I suspect some damage somewhere along the way. (5/10)
Fields of gold
JP Brun “Terres Dorées” 2007 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) – Continuing to stand above the Beaujolais Blanc pack (admittedly, I don’t even think I’ve reached a half-dozen examples, although I have no idea how many wines labeled Mâcon that I’ve tasted have been secret brethren), due less to its rich, earthy aromatics than its more vibrant palate presence and firmer structure. Still one of my favorite French chardonnays, given a certain and deliberate personal poverty within that category. (9/09)
Fabric
Granger “La Jacarde” 2008 Beaujolais Villages Blanc (Beaujolais) – Pure chardonnay seen through the lens of Beaujolais: a simple, sweet melody rather than a concerto or symphony of flavor. Light and pretty. (9/09)
Golden chardonnay
JP Brun “Terres Dorées” 2006 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) – Elusive but enticing, which is half unusual for this wine; usually, it’s just the latter. Faceted glass, mirrored in brown earth and a clear stone fruit texture, with good structure and yet with a good deal of careful restraint. Is this slightly closed? (8/08)
Rosier-colored glasses
Rosier “Château du Chatelard” 2006 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) – More melon than citrus, though both are present (and stone fruit sticks its weightier head in there for a moment). The primary characteristic of this wine, however, is juiciness…a clean, refreshing, almost thirst-quenching appeal, especially at cooler temperatures. Simplistic at first and last glance, but enjoyable nonetheless. (4/08)
Chardonnlais
Brun 2001 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) – Pretty. Moves from peach, to apricot, to tangelo, to grapefruit; as the initially creamy sweetness brings forth its supporting chorus of structure, the wine rounds into fine form. This is drinking nicely now, but perhaps not at peak. 24 hours later, more minerality is on show, with a more restrained overall character. (4/08)
Blancjolais
JP Brun “Terres Dorées” 2006 Beaujolais Blanc Chardonnay (Beaujolais) – Salted gravel, lemon leaves, and orange blossom. Aromatically, this is approaching viognier territory at the moment, though it’s too light and lively to actually be viognier. (1/08)
Brun the day
JP Brun “Terres Dorées” 2001 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) – Light whitish-grey earth, dried almond skin, nut shells which transform to an old, dried-nut bitterness on the finish. The wine’s hollowing out, and while it’s long on the palate, it’s somewhat wan. Air helps, and after an hour or so there’s a lemon/grapefruit element in the mix, with a heavier mouthfeel and a zippy, cleansing element to the finish, but it’s still hollow. This was better a few years ago. (9/07)