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The little mermaid

Barruol “Oriel” 2003 Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône) – Simplistic and far too gentle for its own good; there’s garrigue and bubblegum, herb and earth, but mostly there’s a lack of intensity. It improves a bit with air, but not enough to be more than pleasantly innocuous. (9/07)


Barruol “Château de Saint Cosme” 1995 Gigondas “Valbelle” (Rhône) – Heavy, sludgy raspberry with dense mocha oak, which eventually overwhelms even the intense fruit and leaves the wine somewhat void of character despite all its intense volume. It might improve with more aging, but at this point I doubt that the fruit will ever outlive the wood. (7/07)