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Marestel bliss

Domaine Dupasquier 2004 Roussette de Savoie Altesse “Marestel” (Savoie) – Like drinking a wrench. An adjustable wrench. Firm columns of minerals in motion, circling a melting core of ice. See? A wrench! (11/11)

Jousses one trip

Belluard 2009 Vin de Savoie Terroir du Mont Blanc “Grand Jousses” Cépage Altesse (Savoie) – Flat plains of minerality, broadened to the horizon. Yet despite the breadth there’s a nervousness to the wine, a tension. And on the gripping hand, shyly floral flashes. I’d say this needs time, even on the night, but it’s gone like summer lightning…which, by itself, says something. (11/11)

Peillot box

Peillot 2007 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu Altesse (Ain) – Liquefied bones. Fulsome and bright, “moreish” as the Brits say, but those bones are definitely front and center. I’ve aged this in some vintages with nothing but failure as a result, but this one has brought great reward. (5/11)

Peillot T

Peillot 2007 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu Altesse (Ain) – Like drinking particles more than a liquid…limestone dust held in an indeterminately citric solution of lightness. Not a substantial wine, and probably a little faded vs. release, but it still slips across the palate without any apparent effort, and that can be nice at times. (12/10)