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We’re gonna need a bigGerbaude

Alary 2005 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Gerbaude” (Rhône) – Smells like a Trappist ale, or perhaps a lambic…yes, there’s brett, which is here expressed more as bitterness than mammalian posterior. Also: meat, blood, black olive, and cassis. In addition to the gauzy scrape of brett, there’s a good deal of tannin. For all this, the wine’s solid and well-built, and should be ageable. The brett-averse should probably stay away, however. (3/08)

Alary 2005 Côtes du Rhône “La Gerbaude” (Rhône) – Earth, herb, smoke and meat with just a hint of funk, coalescing into a burnt Creole funnel of brooding, unyielding darkness. It’s not a big wine in its paradigm, but it’s not exactly friendly and floppy either. Age? Almost certainly, though with the right animal flesh it’s pretty good now. (11/07)