Elba grease

Fondiari “Mola” 2005 Aleatico dell’Elba (Elba) – 375 ml. Certainly my first wine from Elba, and one of the more unusual aleaticos I’ve tasted (bet you don’t read that phrase every day). It’s got the bright, keening, slightly herbal red fruit with laser-sharp acidity one expects, and the zippy fruit-derived sweetness, but there’s also a stronger-willed, brown-rock substance to its foundation, and an intensity rarely found in a wine that’s usually lighter and more lithe than this. It’s definitely an alternative expression of the grape, but I really enjoy it. (6/08)

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