Damned if you do

François Cotat 2006 Sancerre Les Monts Damnés (Loire) – All minerality in crystal form. Big and fat – perhaps it has a bit of a weight problem – but with sufficient skeletal fortitude to support the extra heft. I think it should, as usual, age well; it’s pretty primary now. (4/08)

François Cotat 2001 Sancerre Les Monts Damnés (Loire) – Gorgeous, like light through a prism. This brings all the concentrated facets of the young wine into focus, displaying them with remarkable purity and gentle ease, yet there’s excitement and complexity to be had as well. I’d say this is ready to go, though I don’t suppose there’s a huge hurry. (4/08)


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