Valentin’s day

[label]St. Michael-Eppan “Sanct Valentin” 1997 Pinot Nero (Alto Adige) – Beginning to round into maturity, with earthier elements entering the otherwise beet-dominated palate. Red berries are in evidence, but they’re the minority partner. If there’s a quibble, perhaps it’s that the overall impression of the wine is slightly fetid. Nonetheless, there’s much to like here. (11/07)

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