Pass the wine around

Charavin “Domaine des Coteaux des Travers” 2000 Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel (Rhône) – Rasteau the way it used to be. I exaggerate, a bit, but somewhere between the wine history books and the modern market this style has almost completely disappeared, at least on American shores. A pity, because it’s fun, with a more heat-drenched take on an otherwise roughly similar notion than Banyuls…lighter, in a sense, which allows the deep core of sweet-fruited bacon to infuse the Port-like exterior. Very nice. (6/12)

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