No. 1: the loach

Radoar 2008 “Loach” (Alto Adige) – An zweigelt/pinot noir blend. It tastes of zweigelt, more or less, with a plump middle no doubt provided by its companion grape; slightly biting wild berries, dark and just a bit bitter, but with that fulsome midpalate that isn’t often there. The aromatics have been tamped down a bit, as well. While this is certainly better than pummeling zweigelt into submission with things like merlot, which perversion I’ve certainly seen, I’m not entirely convinced by this pairing; it’s good red wine, yes, but I can’t quite hear what it has to say about grape or place. (5/12)

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