New & old

Brun “Terres Dorées” 2011 Beaujolais Nouveau “l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes” (Beaujolais) – Idiosyncrasy can only do so much. There are some absolutes. So yes, this is Brun and the structure and force he brings to Beaujolais…but it’s still a Nouveau, with that clingy unwillingness to grow from grape to wine. The result is a little goofy, but it’s an appealing goofiness, and in smallish quantities I quite enjoy it. (5/12)


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