Second Cazin, twice removed

Cazin 1999 Cheverny “Le Petit Chambord” (Loire) – Starts out full but with a decided totter in its step. Aeration restores full vibrancy, and though there’s light oxidation it’s the fully-integrated, essential kind rather than the decaying, covering kind. Wax, old upholstery, bronzed golden plum, and – perhaps the most surprising yet wonderful elements of all – fiery acidity. (3/12)

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